The NIMAS BMC Experience (April'18)

The NIMAS BMC Experience

Meerathang Glacier (16500 ft)

Every trekker or let’s say any person in love with the majestic Himalaya, has thought of being at the top of Mount Everest. I was of no different breed. Ever since I started to trek a couple of years back, I have yearned to do more that I keep coming back to Himalayas to try and do a more difficult one. Realistically never really thought I’d seriously take up mountaineering at any point. But since doing trekking almost every 3 months in the past two years, I thought of giving it a shot. And so I enrolled myself into National Institute of Mountaineering & Allied Sports (NIMAS), Dirang batch April ’18.

NIMAS is the newest of all the mountaineering institute’s in India. Just 5 years old, it has made a name for itself quiet quickly. Notably for the longest trekking route, highest ice wall and the strict training regime. So much so that, anyone who does Basic Mountaineering Course (BMC) from here, hardly comes back here to do Advanced Mountaineering Course (AMC). NIMAS, is run by Ministry of Defence, and the instructors are well experienced with experience over 20 years all over India, including in HAWS.

My preparation of NIMAS wasn’t any special.  Apart from going to the gym, I started to do some cardio, 5km run, twice or thrice a week, starting two months prior to the course. Which I soon found out during the course that it wasn’t enough. Recommended doing 10km or more runs, and 5 times a week. That would increase ones endurance as well as improve the pace.  Also for rock climbing it is necessary to have good finger strength as well as good forearms. To have good core strength is also an added bonus.  

The course is divided into 3 stage:

1.       The basic knowledge of mountaineering

2.       Rock Craft

3.       Ice Craft

And the journey takes place at 6 different place:

1.       Dirang (6200ft): Getting one ready for the course ahead

2.       New Melling (8600ft): Rock Craft Training

3.       Mago (10500ft)

4.       Jithang (13500ft)

5.       Meerathang(14500ft): Advance Base Camp

6.       Meerathang Glacier (16500ft): Ice Craft Training

The Dirang Chapter

The stay at Dirang was from 6^th till 11^th. That is 6 days. I had arrived the night earlier. Since the arrival was quiet late, the only thing handed over to the late comers was mat and sleeping bag. Rest of the equipment’s were to be handed the next morning. The moment you enter NIMAS, you sense something is different. You feel the air of discipline. We had our first fall in that night, rules and regulation were informed to us, the do’s and don’ts.  You feel being pressurized at first, since coming from a relaxed environment, when all these restrictions are put on you, one kind of feels entrapped. But one gets used to it and it kind of loosens up a bit gradually. But this is a hint of what life is army is. The discipline and law & order they go through daily. It increases your respect for the army people. Our batch consisted of 44. Of it, 4 of them were from army belonging to Gorkha Rifles, while 3 were from Mago Village. Training with the army makes you feel so proud, of the opportunity provided, to see what they can do and just how good they are. Also one who does trekking, knows what the locals are capable of. They are after all, the people who were raised in the mountains. Their stamina is unmatchable, and so was the case of Mago boys over here as well. We had only one female in our batch. 

Day 1

The day started with all of us being taken to the temple,located in the Campus itself, and offered our prayers to God. Later we were handed over remaining stuff and informed of the day schedule. The first session took place was a lecture on equipment knowledge. We were informed of all the equipment’s and things that one needs to know regarding mountaineering.

After lunch we had an outdoor class on Type of Knots. The view of the class was surreal. You are struck in awe. Later we had another lecture of Rucksack packing and a revision class of Knots in the evening. As is the case in North East, the sun rises early and sets early as well. So we had dinner by 7:30pm, and all were asleep by 9pm. This was how one would go daily for the next 27 days.

Day 2

Since PT class started at 6am, everyone had to wake up earlier and get oneself ready on time. Since it was the first class, everyone were unaware of the punctuality. Few came late, and were punished by making them do push ups during the fall in session. We all were given a dose, that not to take it lightly and be on time which is informed. The weight of the rucksack was 10kg and the trek was of 6-7km. The trek was downhill at first to the town, since NIMAS is located on a mountain 3km from Dirang town, and then uphill. The trek route was fairly simple, but the killer was the pace in which we were made to walk. This was my first experience with reality, that I wasn’t as fast as much as I  believed. Everyone though, had arrived back at the campus by schedule time that was 8 am. Soon after getting rid of the rucksack, we were made to do stretching to relax our body. And this became routine as well, as the training got intense later on, it became more important to relax the muscles. 

We had our breakfast time till 9am, after which we had to move towards the Rock Wall for our preliminary rock craft training. The first day of rock craft consisted of Bouldering. Boulder are huge sized rock. We practiced for a good couple of hours on it. As was the case with every day in Dirang, we had a lecture after lunch, first being the orientation since everyone was present that day and later in the evening on Mountain Terminologies and First Aid.

Day 3

Today’s PT session took us to Helmet Top. It is located at an altitude of 8200ft. Weight of rucksack being 12kgs. I was pretty much out of breath at the end of the climb, tailing at the end of the group. Since we were informed that one who is not up to the mark, would not be allowed to go ahead to the next stage of the training, it got me pretty tensed. And since every day one or two would quit, it freaked me out quite more. This pattern of coming among the last lot continued for me during the entire course, but the good thing was the gap between the first ones and last wasn’t that huge, just that I always ended up at the back. Our group was a strong one, and so arriving among last didn’t exactly kill my will off. After all it’s not about how fast one reaches to the top, it is about ones will and perseverance to continue till the top. The bunch of us going forward would be termed as “Picchu Party”, and we were always asked to lead the group after ABC.

We had our breakfast and took off for Rock Climbing session at 10am. Today we had our first introduction to the basics of climbing rock wall. We were allotted in groups. Total 6 groups were formed, and 3 each were given a rock wall face to climb. After a brief lecture on techniques, anchoring and belaying, we moved onto the wall area. I had nervousness at first, but since the face was easy, it disappeared once I began to climb. I was quite happy to climb till top and it gave me a good amount of confidence, that I wasn’t that bad as I thought. After lunch had a lecture on Do’s and Don’ts in High Altitude.

Climbing rock face 2 in Dirang

Day 4

PT for a day was a route around the town. Rucksack weight for the day being 12kg. The rock climbing for the day was reversed. So it was face 1 wall for our group. Face 1 as compared to 2 is quite hard. And less than half of the batch was able to climb it, including me as well. To be honest, it was disappointing and that negative feeling had seeped into again. We had a lecture again on the Do’s and Don’ts in High Altitude, but in detail. I went for a quick nap, since I wasn’t in mood due to the rock climbing incident.

Day 5

Today we were in for a hell. The rucksack weight being increased to 15kg and the trek as per them of 15km, which actually was 30km in the end. The trek took us first to the mountain across the river. We were in a village right opposite to the one which had NIMAS Campus. The view was awesome and we all did it fairly quickly. But then started the hell part. The terrain being walking on road. Everyone’s feet were burning as we continued to walk on the tarmac till lunch. I took my shoes off and let the cool breeze touch my feet to cool it off. The hell wasn’t over till we reached the base of the mountain of NIMAS. The walk on tarmac continued till then. The final part after that being to climb up to the campus. And that too not via the road, but through the forest. I reached there 10min before 3pm, which was our planned time of arrival, got rid of my rucksack and slept for a good few minutes. Fairly satisfied was I, as we all made it in time. No lectures that day.

Beginning the 30 km trek

Day 6

The PT session was called off for the day. After breakfast we were taken to the artificial rock wall. The wall at NIMAS is the highest in India. Our group first climbed the two route of face 1, which were fairly simple and everyone was able to do it. Later we attempted to climb the face 2 which baring one guy, from the army, none were able to complete. It had a slight over hang at the top. Even he was tired at the end of the climb. Last but not the least, we learned how to traverse on the face 4. Face 3 was for artificial ice climbing.   

The highest artificial rock wall of India. 

We were free for the rest of the day, and some of us went to the market after lunch. I was not going to miss the chance to go, since I was already tired of the food of the campus. I went to the market and got some snacks for the course duration ahead, and also had a plate of momos before returning back to the campus. Some of us hired a cab and went to the Campus, while some didn’t agree to the charges of the cab and decided to walk it up. What followed was a hilarious situation created by those guys. One of them planned up that, he’ll act as if he is fainting and need of help. We informed our instructor that one of us is not well, and few others are helping him to reach the campus.  The other guy called up at the office asking for help. Since a car was coming downhill, they would carry them back. But it so happened that the senior in the car refused to go midway back and ordered to the driver to first complete the task they were on. So in order to reach back on time, these guys unwittingly had to hire the same cab that we were on, on its way back, pay for it and reach the campus. The drama wasn’t over, since everyone was by now aware that one of them had fainted. So the acting continued for an hour or so more, which was fairly well done, making everyone fool of what was taking place. While some of us use who knew, couldn’t control the laughter from a faraway distance.

We all had a good laugh once the matter settled. Since we had to leave the next day for our next training location, everyone was busy packing that night and went to sleep after that.

The New Melling Chapter

New Melling is a small village, consisting of around 10 house, most being closed and no more than 10-15 people stay there. It is located besides a river in a valley which makes for a breath-taking view, any time of the day you witness. There is a small multi-purpose shop which served lip-smacking Momos, the best I have ever had, freshly cooked right in front of your eyes. During the entire stay over here, I frequently visited the shop to have the momos. The chutney served with the momos was made from local chillies. It was spicy but very tasty as well.

Every group was assigned a day to take care of boiling the water. So one had to wake up early morning, burn the wood and monitor the level of water in the pot. The same had to be followed during the free time at the camp during the entire day.

Day 7

Everyone were done with packing and had the 20-25kg rucksack on their shoulder. Seeing around everyone’s face, it was of a shocker, all wondering how they are going to survive this burden for the next 20 odd days. We had our usual fall-in in the morning and took off for Jang in the cabs.

It took approx. 5 and a half hours i.e. we reached around at 11:30am, crossing Sela Pass which is at 13000ft. From there on we had to trek for 16km to New Melling. The entire patch is a gradual ascend, so the trek wasn’t difficult. The challenge here being getting used to the heavy rucksack. Since the straps of the rucksack provided (Lowe Alpine Metanoia) weren’t that cushiony, it pained a lot. I reached there at approx. 3am, and within half an hour, everyone had arrived.

Since there were no adequate place in the room for all to stay, 9 of us were given an arctic tent for accommodation.

Starting of the New Melling Trek with 25 kg rucksack

The toilet area for New Melling was a good 1km away, so everyday waking up at 3-4am, walking that much, and often it rained during night, made it an irritating ritual all had to go through.

Day 8

The first PT session was a straightforward one, a non-inclined trek to Hydle, and approx. 4 km from New Melling. The weight of the rucksack for the morning PT session were 15kgs from now on.

Returning back we had our breakfast and we left for our first rock climbing session. The wall is located about 150m from the village, so the walk till there wasn’t much. Everyone climbed rock face 3 on that day, which apart from the initial steps, wasn’t much of a challenge.

The same schedule of Dirang we followed here, had our lunch and then had our lecture. Today being on Glacier.

New Melling Campsite

Day 9

The second day trek took us to Thingbu Half Link. An easy, but none the less climb up.

View from Thingbu Half Link

The rock climbing session for the day was about Rappelling. We were taught two methods, stomach and side rappelling. The lecture for the day was about Avalanche.

Side Rappelling at New Melling

Day 10

Today, we went all the way to Thingbu.  It was all good till the only girl who was allotted to lead the group went back midway. And then our leading instructor took off like a bullet. The pace suddenly increased and all were left for breath. That last 30min stretch was really a breath taker.

Thingbu is a big village, located at 11500ft, a gain of 3000ft for that day. When everyone returned back at Hydle, Chief Instructor instructed that all will have a race from their till New Melling. A good 4km and the challenge was to reach in 20mins. Since I was already tired, I decided not to run, just walk it through as fast as I could. The position I arrived was 26 out of 36.

The rock wall practice for the day was on face 1 and 4. We were given rock climbing shoes for the first time. And they are not at all comforting. It pained like hell, the moment that got on. It takes time to get used to the fingers of the feet being squeezed. I got to climb 4 first, which is the toughest of the four, which with the help of a good belay, I could climb all the way. As far as face 1 was concerned, I had to climb straight after climbing 4, so my feet were already in pain. Being tired, I gave up midway, but later I attempted again, after giving rest to my feet taking the shoes off, and managed to climb it.

The lecture for the day was about Map Reading.

Day 11

It is said that the trek from New Melling to Mago is the toughest from the entire course. It a straightforward trek, till you arrive at a certain point, after which it is all steep uphill for 7km. The trek for the day was till the point the uphill start. It is a good 15km from New Melling. A fairly easy but tiring trek. Everyone were back at the camp by 4pm.

We had no lecture that day, and later that night we were informed that the rock climbing test was to take place the next day.

Day 12

Since we had a test, there was no PT session. Everyone had breakfast and marched towards the rock wall at 9am. The ones who wanted practice, were given a 1 hour window for the last minute preparation. I wanted no extra minute in those rock climbing shoes, so I skipped it. Our group turn was 2^nd, and this time we had to begin with climbing face 1 and then 4. Since the belay done was loose for the test, most of us had a hard time climbing 4, and less than 10 were able to climb up to the top. No, I wasn’t one of them. But I was able to do 1. Which half of the batch were able to climb it. So I was satisfied with my effort, since this was my first time rock climbing anywhere, I had no prior experience before like many others.

We had fish for dinner that night, the only time during the course we had. And this was the last non-veg meal we had till we returned back to New Melling, some 10 days later.

Climbing wall face 1 at New Melling

Day 13

We were heading off to Mago. Today was all about surviving the day anyway, as it was the hardest trek of the course. Setting of at 6am, we were informed that we would reach by 4-5pm. But since our group was filled with good athlete, surprising the instructors we arrived well ahead by 2pm. The last one to arrive was none other than me. The climb from Mago Half Link till Mago was a killer. Literally every step, took me a couple to sec to finish it. I was walking like an old man, one step at a time. Accompanying me on the way were few other guys, who were equally tired. Few instructors accompanied us. They were playing music on the Bluetooth stereo, which kind of made it fun as well. It was a very tiring but a good trek in the end. The satisfaction of reaching Mago was literally sky high.

The Mago Chapter

Mago is a village at an altitude of 10500ft. It is the army base as well, as it is close to China border. During the war with China in ’71, the Chinese forces had reached till here. It is inaccessible to the civilians, with access only to the locals and army.

Day 14

Without the rucksack, the morning trek took us to Chuna Post. It is the last army post over there near the Indo-China border. At the post, we were served some light snack by the army guys. And they served us quiet well, Pakora, Bhujiya, Juice, Tea, Biscuits etc. were on offer for us. All of us grabbed as much as one could. It was a great treat since we hadn’t had a snack like this during our course. 

On our way back, we stopped at a Hot Spring and had a bath over there after so many days. If we had our wish, we wouldn’t have come out for a few hours.

Our stay at Mago was at a school. All of us were divided into two groups, and cramped into two classroom. So we were like 18-19 people in one small room. I would prefer to sleep in tent any day over it.

The Jithang Chapter

Jithang Camp Site

Survival Test Cooking Material

Day 15

The trek from Mago to Jithang is 15km. Having that heavy rucksack back on wasn’t a comforting feeling. The trek is a gradual include, and we were all at the campsite by 11:30am.

Jithang is located at an intersection of two valley. There were approx. 5-6 huts over there, belonging to yak herders. The campsite was the best one could ever ask for.

First thing we were asked to do after reaching there was to collect woods from the nearby areas. Later we were informed that the survival challenge would take place that evening, the group being divided according to the tents. The challenge assigned was to prepare food and shelter on our own.

Our group decided to occupy a shelter a little far away from the camp site, which took a fair amount of time to shift from one place to another. The cooking responsibility was handled by me. Since it started to rain, we had to think quickly to cover our cooking zone, since it was near a huge boulder, what we did was created a shelter with the help of couple of ponchos. It took quite long to cook the meal, and we couldn’t get everything according to plan. So our dinner was Khichdi, which to be fair wasn’t cooked perfectly, as the Dal was a bit hard, but eatable none the less. Egg Bhurji, which was well done, Roasted Potato and Baigan ka Bharta. Overall it was a great effort by the team, and happy with the effort, we had what we made for the dinner and dozed off soon after. As far as the shelter is concerned, we had a huge boulder nearby the cooking zone, bottom of which there was this huge gap, which could accommodate all of us, so the other guys first cleaned it up, put mats inside it, created a fire place as well, and covered the entrance with ponchos. That was done very well. All in all, the instructors were happy with our effort, and even appreciated the Egg Burji we made, saying it was better than the ones prepared by their cooking staff. We didn’t not make them taste the other stuff, LOL.

The Meerathang Chapter

Meerathang is located at an altitude of 14500ft. It is the advance base camp for the Ice Craft at Glacier. It is surrounded by snow covered mountains from all the sides, and is a very beautiful camp site. During our stay, it snowed frequently over there. So during the day one would find white sheet of snow as well as a green ones. It melted pretty quickly as well. The stay over here was fabulous. But during our 6 days here, all we ate was rice, some aloo and beans, and watery dal. At the end of the last day, all were tired of consuming this things.

Meerathang Camp Site on non-snowy day

Meerathang Camp Site on snowy day

Day 16

Jithang is 10km from Mago. Since the girl had returned back from here, there was no one ahead to control the pace. Which brought the spotlight on few of yes, who would lag behind. During the first break for the day, I and my friend were ordered not to be given a break, since we were late and take the lead of the group. And off we went for one more hour straight without a break. Everyone had arrived at the campsite by 11:15am, and as usual I had gone from leading the group to tailing back. But as long as it was on time, it was fine.

We were asked to camp by ourselves, and after struggling for a good hour or so, our arctic tent was up. That evening for the very first time, we were asked to put on our snow booth and crampons. Those booth weigh a good kg each. They made us walk in those and then taught us how to put crampons on it, and made us walk with it again. Walking with those on rocks isn’t comforting at all.

Day 17

Today was our first training day of Ice Craft. The trek is 7km one way. The path takes us through the valley, covered with loose rocks on the slope side and river on the other. Then we enter another valley, cover by huge mud pillar on one side and loose rocks on the slope of the other side. When you reach a bit ahead, you’ll encounter a tarn. It is was turquois in colour, and made for a very pretty view. The path till there is covered in scree, which is a challenge to cross in itself. The final climb is a steep one and a tiring one too. In the final stretch, there is a roping done on the piton at a rock edge. Crossing that you’ll enter into the snow field. The glacier is a km away from there. The camp for the AMC is on the way to the glacier. You are asked to put on the boots and crampons over here.

Before the training, we had a small blessing ritual performed to the God. The training for the day started with a small lecture about Ice Craft and then we were taught how to stop the fall when climbing on the glacier/snow.

We had tea at the camp of AMC and we were back at our ABC by 3pm.

Everyone relaxed once back, as there was not much to do, so we played Ludo and use to chat till the dinner was served.

Day 18

Since I had covered my face completely, I developed a Nausea, also I had a stomach cramp. So I decided to fall back that day. It was heart breaking but since I had no other option, I didn’t want to risk it.

There were few others who stayed back with me, we talked for a while, and some of us even took the opportunity to wash the clothes and take a bath, since it was a bright sunny day.

The evening was spend the same way as yesterday, playing Ludo, chatting till the dinner time.

Day 19

Today I did manage to go up. But the cramp returned back when I was at the glacier. The training for the day was about Jummaring on the Ice wall. The technique used to climb is not much different, only difference you even use front spikes of the crampons to get a grip. The view atop the Ice Wall was mind blowing. Also that day, we practiced two point and three point climbing. The two point training ritual by the army guys is very tiring, you go through certain routine, which kills off your breath.

Day 20

So once again I took the day off, not wanting to risk and damage my twisted ankle. That day, it snowed the whole day. We all who stayed back had fun at the camp site.

Day 21

Since it was the last day and the Ice Craft Test day, I had decided to go anyone. But on the way, the Doctor-one of the guys from Army, ordered me to go back since I was having a bad Neck Ache. So once again I was back at the camp site. Most of the time was sleeping since I wanted to rest my neck. The weather that day was terrible, and the once who went on top had a hard time the whole day. They had to descend wearing those snow boots. I guess I would have been screwed up bad had I gone up. All those guys were very tired, and they went to sleep quiet early.

Day 22

Since it snowed the whole night, the morning was welcomed with white blanket everywhere. A couple of guys made a Snow Demon, and rest of us joined in and had some fun around it, dancing and singing around it. This actually pissed off the instructors, LOL. They scolded us saying, the course wasn’t over and to stay in discipline.

The Snow Demon

There was no going up for the day. We had a Crevasse Rescue Class that morning. Nearby the campsite, they taught us how the rescue is conducted.

Day 23

We were asked to close the tents we were in before departing. It was a long walk back since, we had to go all the way till Mago. The walk was tiring, since that heavy load was back on, and I had to deal with my neck ache as well. Once again, after a brief good run ahead, trailed at the back courtesy the neck pain. I reached no further than 10min behind. I guess it was 3pm. I had no sense of situation since the pain was excruciating. We all took the same spot back, same as we had when we came here first. A batch mate, a student of PT from Haryana, gave me a good neck massage, which helped in relaxing the muscles. And that did wonders the next morning, as the pain had receded a lot. Some of the guys had gone to the hot spring, while the others just relaxed back at the school. Also, everyone was excited to return back to New Melling, and head to the shop to have those delicious plate of momos.

Day 24

The time to depart for New Melling had arrived. The Pichu Party were asked to lead the group, and for once, it stayed the same till the very end. None of us were left behind, and we led till the end. The same steep 7km climb, was all downhill now and the trek for the day felt no difficult, neither the weight was an issue. It was like, we were used to the weight, and frankly we were. We reached New Melling at 2pm. Dropped of our bags and headed straight to the shop. Also we were served chicken at our campsite. It was good to have those taste back on our lips.

Momos at New Melling Shop

Day 25

It was the D-day. The day of Endurance Run. It starts from New Melling to Hydle and back. Total 8km. Weight of the rucksack 15kg. Time limit for full marks 56minutes. The time I clocked was 1 hour 12 minutes and 29 sec. I was 23^rd out 34^th. A friend of my batch mate from the previous batch came in 16^th with a time of 1 hour 16 minute. It gives one the idea how strong our batch was. Running with weight at 8600ft wasn’t easy but the experience was great. We were served Sheera and Jam water at the end of the race.

Around noon, we were taken for a river crossing class. It was great fun where we were taught and had to perform a couple of river crossing technique. We were even asked to take a dip into the icy cold. A great experience I must say. Rest of the day, we hung in and around the campsite and the shop.

River Crossing

Day 26

It was finally time to say goodbye to our rucksack. This was the final trek, to Jung. Everyone was happy to return back and finally bid adieu to the rucksack. On reaching Jang, all were enjoying and clicking photos. The car picked us up from there and we reached the campus by 6pm.

The test was scheduled for next day and also the interview were to be conducted the same day. So everyone was busy studying that night for the test.

Day 27

The test was of 50 marks, and very simple. I did pretty well, since I never had issue with lectures. Later that day we had our interview conducted, which is more of a brief one on one discussion regarding the experience at NIMAS.

Since we didn’t have anything planned for the next day, we all were given the permission to leave a day earlier.

Later that day, we had our group photo session and we all passed the rest of the day talking with each other, with everyone having their own plans, some returning back, while some travelling further.

Day 28

It was finally the day to bid good bye to NIMAS BMC-16. It was kind of emotional as well. We all were like a family, surviving together each day as it came. And now the day had arrived to go on our separate ways. A 27 day journey was about to end and all having same aspiration going forward, many more mountains to climb and the fight to be better you goes on.

Cheers to the mountaineers of the future.